Disconnect hose inlet and use a funnel to introduce 1-3 tablespoons detergent (depending on length of pipe).
Preheat the pipes: run tap until new copper is fully hot, then turn off.Ħ. If your home has a PRV, dial it down to say 25psi to protect the hose.ĥ. Connect the above between laundry hot tap and your new stinky copper run.Ĥ. Similar to dishwasher detergent, without the extra junk: no dye, fragrance, or anti-spot. Powdered ESPRESSO MACHINE DETERGENT (many brands: Joe Glo, Cafiza, Puro Caf, Puly Caf, etc. Adapters to connect hose to your new run.Ĭ. This fixed it 100% as far as I can tell:ī. I had my own !oh-my-god! moment, using this same flux. It's a shame that so many plumbing books talk about fluxes and plug the author's favorite one, but don't mention the existence of WATER-SOLUBLE FLUX specifically for potable water lines.
I've noticed that it dissipates faster in HOT water lines, which I suspect tend to liquefy and flush away some of the the greasy film. People tell me that the taste goes away slowly, which makes sense if the funk is not very soluble in water and is only released slowly by the grease. Since my problem is probably the resin base (carrier) in the flux, I don't think the acid/salt trick would do much for me. (This also works with copper bottom skillets.) Turns out the want pure copper leading off the flask into the condenser to catalyze some reactions, and clean their reactor with lemon juice and un-iodized salt.
Tinning flux 95 full#
I've flushed hot and cold separately, full blast, for probably an hour each.
Tinning flux 95 free#
Putting some in my mouth (the lead free stuff!) only gave slight tingle because of the "battery" reaction with my fillings. 1/2 copper, actually run about 46' judging from my remaining pieces.It will save you a lot of pieces and a lot of joints. But if you have a big job, get over your tendency to go with threaded versions and adaptors when sweat versions are available. Haven't had one leak in a very long time with that combo. Since I hate leaks, I use teflon tape AND rectorseal on threaded joints. And a piece of scotchbrite pad cleans the joint up nice after the wet rag. Take the time to remove the melted flux with a damp rag after the joints cool. If you have a lot of fittings to clean, cut the handle off a fitting brush and chuck it in a drill. I think it helps the solder form a smooth fillet. I also like to clean the end of the fitting. I don't like to leave cleaned pieces sitting around for a long time before sweating them. After cleaning the pipe with plumber's cloth or the fitting with an inside brush, I give it a quick wipe with a clean rag to remove the grit and loosened grime. It cuts better when fresh, and it's cheap. And I don't try to use a single piece for more than a few joints. Personally, I prefer plumber's cloth to steel wool by far. Other than that, I don't notice much difference. I like the tinning flashes silver when the joint reaches temperature so it helps me not overheat the joint. Someone recommended RectoSeal, which I bought but have not used yet. I tend to be liberal w/ threaded adapters, for things like valves, check valves, and other stuff, as I'm more comfortable w/ the threaded versions of those, and have actually screwed a few up in the sweating process.Īlso, any opinions on joint compound for threaded joints? I don't know if it's cheap fittings or just me getting old, but I've actually had to use plumber's string and dope to get rid of stubborn leaks. I'll be using a prestolyte-type setup w/ an acetylene B tank, doing mostlyġ/2", but also some 3/4, 1", 1.25". Any opinions on which would better facilitate a fairly lengthy plumbing job I have ahead of me?Īny other tips? For example, is emery better than steel wool for cleaning joints? Is one solder better than another? etc. I also have the Oatey #5 regular solder paste. I've always used "regular" flux for sweating, but the wife brought home, by accident, Oatey #95 *tinning flux*, which seems it might actually be a good idea, perhaps helping solder flow into the joint by "pre-wetting" it a little.
0 kommentar(er)
